As advertised previously, I have been working on converting a knock-off Les Paul Special (kind-of) to a headless design. Since the subject in question is actually not playable (neck is bent beyond repair), I have not attempted to make it a nice looking instrument. Instead, I am merely trying to illustrate some of the levels of freedom you get with EGS. Here is the end result: I began with the converted Tune-o-Matic tailpiece that I have shown earlier. And a $100 guitar that was given to me as scrap. Here, I have routed a ditch behind the tuners to allow access for the fingers. For the head, I decided on an adventurous design, again only to illustrate the flexibility of the EGS string locks. You lock the strings from the inside of the “V”: The end result again: Now, I don’t have the Tune-o-Matic available as a standard product. Please do contact me though if you have one that you would like to have converted. In the future, I may develop this concept further, but for now I will rely on standard...
Learn MoreLately, I have been working with two Italian luthiers: Michele Benincaso and Paolo Scorpioni. What is interesting is that they both wanted custom tailpieces for Tune-O-Matic bridges. Michele wanted a replacement that would fit into his current build and Paolo wanted a solution to enable him to make a 7-string headless guitar. Michele with his build when we first met. It is a truly beautiful instrument he is building. It will be composed of (almost) all Swedish parts, including pickups from Lundgren. Here is the string anchor that I developed for Michele. The plan is that this will double as a string anchor for the double-ball end string solution that I am working on. String anchors fitted. The effect is quite dramatic compared to what a standard tailpiece would have done. Now, Paolo’s needs were entirely different. I have gotten my hands on a couple of discarded Les Paul Jr type guitars that I intend to convert into headless solutions like the Castaway Strat project. Here is a sneak peek: I have simply enlarged the holes in the existing tailpiece and inserted my tuners. Stay tuned for more info in the up-coming LPJR conversion project. Meet me and Michele at the FUZZ guitar show in Gothenburg the coming weekend, April...
Learn MoreNext steps are adjusting approximate string height and mounting the bridge. First, I unwind the tuners to their maximum range. Next, I thread the string through the tuner. And fasten it in the string lock. All six strings mounted. All six strings fastened. The result is stunning! I have been very impatient to get some of this work done, as may be apparent from some of the woodwork, but it’s done and it works amazingly well. Next installment will cover adapting a pick guard and finishing the guitar. I am not yet sure whether to mount the Lace Alumitones that I have laying around or if I should go more...
Learn MoreAfter completing the routing of the body, it is time to turn to the neck. I have decided to keep the original neck with a minimum of modifications. Note that it is possible to mount my string locks in many different ways, including removing most of the head. I begin by drilling 1.5 mm holes through the side of the head and through the bottom of the tuner holes. I then enlarge the top portion of the holes to 6 mm. Now, I can insert the string locks through the tuner holes. I insert the fastening screws through the side holes and tighten. These hardened screw heads will form the seat that the strings will rest against when locked. This provides good durability and they may also be exchanged if they ever get worn. This is what it looks like from above. Here, I have mounted all six string locks. Viewed from the side, you can see the locking screws. Next installment will cover assembly of the complete...
Learn MoreI decided to route a slanted “groove” in the body to allow for the fingers to reach underneath the tuner knobs. I made it approximately 30 mm wide and 10 mm deep. A tremolo fitted for reference. Next installment will cover modifying the neck to fit the string...
Learn MoreBelow, I have drilled the holes for the mounting posts. They are drilled to a depth of the bushing height + 4 mm since I intend to route the recess to a depth of 4 mm. I drill them before routing the recess in order to have a flat surface with my taped guide marks still on it to drill on. Next, I used the mounting post holes as reference points for the recess. The next installment will cover how I route the clearance for fingers to tune, below the tuner knobs. The jury is still out on how to achieve this in the best and most aesthetically pleasing...
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